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The for many so precarious spices, cardamom and a hint of cumin, come to better effect and the orange ripened to full beauty later in the 'Cologne Bigarade' can already be experienced here. The original 'Déclaration' on the back of my other hand simply smells better: fresher, brighter, more refined.

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Some prefer rather scent bolides in modernistic bloated style (Cashmeran, Ambroxan & Co.), but it's too loud for me, too SUV-like, too much sound generator pose. That's no big deal, since 'Déclaration' perfume is in quite respectable company here: because similar to this supposed 'perfume' (probably an EdP) it's the same with other heavyweights like the already mentioned 'Eau Sauvage Parfum', but also 'Hèritage Eau de Parfum', 'Dior Homme Parfum', 'Fahrenheit Parfum', or 'PuH de Caron Impact' - all of them don't reach the class of their EdT-representatives. The brighter sounding brilliance, the steel power and refinement of the original, however, she does not achieve. In itself, the perfume version is not bad: it is full-sounding, unfolds volume and a richly orchestrated depth, all pervaded by the familiar 'Déclaration' sound, but tuned darker, richer. Especially the comparison with Ellena's 'Déclaration' makes it stand out.Īt the moment I have his scent on the back of one hand and Mme Laurent's version on the other. Nevertheless it is there, and unfortunately clearly recognizable. Strangely enough, the cashmeran in 'Déclaration Parfum' doesn't bother me as much as in the Dior fragrance or in 'Roadster', because the base notes keep its light beige sweetness quite well in check.

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Mathilde Laurent herself has overloaded her own 'Roadster' with it, as well as the wonderful patchouli scent 'L'Heure Mysterieuse'.Ĭashmeran can now be found quite wonderful, especially if you appreciate sweetish light woodsy nuances in combination with a distant musk-like skin note, but you can also quickly get annoyed by it - annoyed by all the synthetic caramel woodsy baby skin fluffiness. In many of her creations it can be experienced in a rare quantity and unfolds beside all its wonderfully fragrant aspects unfortunately also its - at least for me - unpleasant sides.īut Mme Laurent is not the only one who enriches her formulas with an excess of cashmeran: François Demachy, for example, has also delighted his all-sided applauded 'Eau Sauvage Parfum' (also originally a Roudnitska fragrance) with it, as has Maurice Roucel his 'Dans tes bras'. Mathilde Laurent now makes sure that exactly these leather notes appear more strongly again, which does not lead, however, to the fact that the new smell would change back a piece in the direction of 'Eau d'Hermès', no, she develops it further in the direction of her own fragrance fingerprint, and this is characterized above all by the frequent one of a fragrance, by Cashmeran.

Unlike his teacher, Jean-Claude Ellena placed the basic character of his new fragrance more in the direction of a semi-oriental chypre fragrance and let the clear leather nuances of the Roudnitska fragrance take a back seat. The creator of the fragrance, which was launched more than 20 years ago, also considers it to be one of his best, according to his own statements.Ī homage to 'Eau d'Hermès', the early masterpiece of Edmond Roudnitskas, which his pupil reinterpreted almost half a century later. Déclartion' has always been a great fragrance (at least in my opinion) and Mathilde Laurent, the head perfumer of Cartier, obviously doesn't see it any differently, otherwise she wouldn't pay so much attention to the DNA of the original fragrance in all the flanks she created.